Onkyo TX-NR3007 Receiver Thread

[LordoftheRings]

Originally Posted by drdave

Yeah lord,
before getting the receiver set up, I read this forum, got the Syba Giant 7' fan, with USB adapter and a Smart Strip Power Switch to turn it off when the 3007 is powered down. Been working like a champ, I have it situated on top drawing air out, since that way if the fan dies it won't block any airholes, been keeping the receiver fairly cool just fine. very mildy warm at most.
Yesterday, re-ran the calibration while the temp here was still fairly cool, I'm afraid it still didn't detect the subwoofer, even with the refrigerators and all other noise making devices off. I manually checked the sub on afterwards, changed my main speakers from Full to 80Hz. My sub was still set for -15db in the receiver settings, ran the receiver test tones. I have one of the older style (20-25 years old) Radio Shack SPL meters, all speakers measure 74 db or so, the sub showed 75-76 db from the main listening position meter pointing up. I have no external volumn level control for the sub. Sub output 1 from the 3007 goes straight to a Cinepro 600X Amp that drives the Sub.
I didn't have a chance to really listen much after doing the sound set up. Cooling fan or not, it was too damn hot here to start pushing the receiver, today temps are going down 10 or so, tomorrow even more ! So I'll flex her out then !

Hi Dave,

1. In the back of your sub, is there a switch for Auto/On/Off?
If yes, select "ON", like Always.

2. Your sub's "Gain Control" is too high; set it to about 1/4 (9 o'clock) from it's rotary knob control. Then rerun Audyssey again. If Audyssey set it to about -13 dB or above, that would be fine.

3. Oooookie, I see now, your Cinepro 600X Amp is your Sub's "Gain Control".
Then, and read this carefully; you'll have to play a CD or a movie with the sub engaged, just for few minutes (seconds) so that your sub is activated and Audyssey can locate it. Then, run Audyssey quickly after. ...And you'll have to probably adjust the master volume from your Cinepro Amp so that it's in the right ball park; just try 9 o'clock to start. You want your 3007's sub channel level to be at about -12 dB or higher, from Audyssey determination.
As the lower limit for the sub channel from the 3007 is -15 dB, you need to be above that figure by a few dBs in order to operate within a fair margin (mine was set by Audyssey at -12.5 dB, and I left it right there, I'm good).

Sincerely hope this helps,
Bob

[gixer1997]

Ok I'll look into that.

Thanks

[gixer1997]

So I have another issue hopefully someone can help me out with. I have a Wii connecting to the 3007 via a component cable into in3 Game and the receiver via hdmi to the tv. I get sound but no video. I connect the wii via composite to aux1 and I get video and sound. On my previous onkyo I had the wii connected to the receiver with the component cable to in1 DVD and the receiver out via hdmi to the tv and it worked fine. what am I missing here? I've read on AVS about a few people having a similar issue but I havent seen a solution.

Thanks

[drdave]

Originally Posted by LordoftheRings

Hi Dave,

1. In the back of your sub, is there a switch for Auto/On/Off?
If yes, select "ON", like Always.

2. Your sub's "Gain Control" is too high; set it to about 1/4 (9 o'clock) from it's rotary knob control. Then rerun Audyssey again. If Audyssey set it to about -13 dB or above, that would be fine.

3. Oooookie, I see now, your Cinepro 600X Amp is your Sub's "Gain Control".
Then, and read this carefully; you'll have to play a CD or a movie with the sub engaged, just for few minutes (seconds) so that your sub is activated and Audyssey can locate it. Then, run Audyssey quickly after. ...And you'll have to probably adjust the master volume from your Cinepro Amp so that it's in the right ball park; just try 9 o'clock to start. You want your 3007's sub channel level to be at about -12 dB or higher, from Audyssey determination.
As the lower limit for the sub channel from the 3007 is -15 dB, you need to be above that figure by a few dBs in order to operate within a fair margin (mine was set by Audyssey at -12.5 dB, and I left it right there, I'm good).

Sincerely hope this helps,
Bob

Bob,
The sub is always "activated", completely passive with no switches or crossovers, the Cinepro Amp is just a pure power amp, no gain control on it whatsoever, always on, except for power failures. Not sure how I could play a CD with bass for Audyssey to locate it, why would Audyssey be on while I played a CD ? Don't you have to run Cal for Audyssey to catch the test tones it provides with the microphone ???

I do see their are inline RCA attenuators out there, 3, 6 & 12db from Harrison Labs for about $26 a pair, sold in pairs. Might give one of those a try connected right at the Cinepro input. Not too worried at these low frequencies of any detrimental effects they could cause to signal response.
Thanks again for your efforts, I do appreciate it.
Dave

[LordoftheRings]

Originally Posted by gixer1997

Ok I'll look into that.

Thanks

Hi Gixer,

I saw already that you did, good!

* Your post: @ http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ostcount=30115

* Chris' reply: @ http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ostcount=30118

________________________

~ As for your last post here just above concerning the problems with the Wii,
I cannot help you out. But I did also see that you posted that same issue at AVS under the official Onkyo 3007/5007 thread. Again, excellent!

Regards,
Bob

Originally Posted by drdave

Bob,
The sub is always "activated", completely passive with no switches or crossovers, the Cinepro Amp is just a pure power amp, no gain control on it whatsoever, always on, except for power failures. Not sure how I could play a CD with bass for Audyssey to locate it, why would Audyssey be on while I played a CD ? Don't you have to run Cal for Audyssey to catch the test tones it provides with the microphone ???

I do see their are inline RCA attenuators out there, 3, 6 & 12db from Harrison Labs for about $26 a pair, sold in pairs. Might give one of those a try connected right at the Cinepro input. Not too worried at these low frequencies of any detrimental effects they could cause to signal response.
Thanks again for your efforts, I do appreciate it.
Dave

Dave, it was just to make sure that your sub is activated (On) in order for Audyssey to detect it, that's all.

* IMPORTANT: Ok Dave, your particular situation is a little outside my knowledge. After you gave me more precise informations on your particular setup, I realised that I couldn't come up with the right solution.
I probably could if I would really want to by directly addressing it at AVS.

=> So, here's my suggestion (recommendation) for your particular situation:
Go to AVS Forum (get a membership if you don't have one already), and go to the "Official Audyssey Thread". Then ask the man itself, Chris, the founder of Audyssey, to help you out, and by describing exactly all the components in your particular setup and how they are connected between each other.

That's the best I can do for now.

Good luck, and please Dave, keep me updated,
Bob

__________________________________________________ ____________
__________________________________________________ ____________

* For all the people interested in the newer Onkyo TX-NR3008/5008 receivers.

I got definitive confirmation that both these newer receivers do in fact have Audyssey MultEQ XT32. I saw pictures with their front panel faces (door) exactly indicating it. ...Furhermore, you can now dowload their manuals (from Onkyo's own website) and it will also be indicated in those as well, and what it does, with explanations.
Also, you can now run the Front Wide and Height channels from Audyssey DSX simultaneously.

Also, I read at AVS that the TX-NR5008 could be had right now for only $1,630 USD! But it was not mentioned from which place exactly.
Also, the 3008 is already shipping, and even in the hands of some customers as we speak now. ...Reviews from owners should be here by tomorrow, and so on... I will keep you posted with what I consider the major improvements. And XT32 is certainly one of them.

Alright, I think that covers it for now.

Good night, good day & good luck.

[bigdolf]

hello fellow onkyo fans

[LordoftheRings]

Originally Posted by bigdolf

hello fellow onkyo fans

Hey how's gong?

[bigdolf]

Originally Posted by LordoftheRings

Hey how's gong?

quite well...just have been auditioning new speakers...you know, all the fun things

[LordoftheRings]

Originally Posted by bigdolf

quite well...just have been auditioning new speakers...you know, all the fun things

Excellent pastime!

[dobyblue]

Originally Posted by LordoftheRings

Dave, it was just to make sure that your sub is activated (On) in order for Audyssey to detect it, that's all.

* IMPORTANT: Ok Dave, your particular situation is a little outside my knowledge. After you gave me more precise informations on your particular setup, I realised that I couldn't come up with the right solution.

Bob, maybe in future you can try and think it through for a while before posting? It's one thing to give advice all the time, better to only give advice about topics you're inherently familliar with because it results in less confusion for our forum members looking for helpful advice.

A passive sub is no more likely to have a power switch than a passive floorstanding speaker.

[LordoftheRings]

You're absolutely right.

[ChadFL]

Well I finally pulled the plug and bought an Onkyo 3008. My 605 model served my well for over 3 years but I felt it was time to upgrade. Next up is (probably) an Emotiva XPA-3 amp.

[LordoftheRings]

Originally Posted by ChadFL

Well I finally pulled the plug and bought an Onkyo 3008. My 605 model served my well for over 3 years but I felt it was time to upgrade. Next up is (probably) an Emotiva XPA-3 amp.

Congrats! ...And at the low price ($1,149 from NewEgg), it was a non-brainer choice for sure!

P.S. Get the XPA-2, or XPA-5, instead of the 3.

[LordoftheRings]

Emotiva XPA-5, yeah!

[ChadFL]

Originally Posted by LordoftheRings

Congrats! ...And at the low price ($1,149 from NewEgg), it was a non-brainer choice for sure!

P.S. Get the XPA-2, or XPA-5, instead of the 3.

I suppose I can still get some decent cash back selling the old 605 Onkyo. It's still in great condition with remote and manuals.

[LordoftheRings]

Originally Posted by ChadFL

I suppose I can still get some decent cash back selling the old 605 Onkyo. It's still in great condition with remote and manuals.

To put things in the right perspective; the Onk 608 is selling for $300.
...So how much you think your 605's worth now?

[ChadFL]

Originally Posted by LordoftheRings

To put things in the right perspective; the Onk 608 is selling for $300.
...So how much you think your 605's worth now?

I still have my old HTIB speakers and sub laying around too. Probably just going to throw them all together on Craigslist.

[Basil Plumley]

Wonder if anybody here has had the same problem I've been getting...? I am having major problems getting the picture to sync via the HDMI sub out - particularly at 1080/24. Below I've simply detailed the problem...

AVR Input AND Output set to "Through" = 1080/24 signal in, 1080/60 out.
AVR Input set to through and Output set to Source = No Sync
AVR Output ste to Both (which sets the resolution to "auto") - 1080/24 in, 1080/60 out

The above 3 examples are when using Blu-ray or HD DVD...obviously...

When using Sky HD (which broadcasts at 1080i/50 I get the following results.

AVR Input AND Output set to "Through" - 1080i/50 in, 1080P/50 out
AVR Input Set To through and output set to source = No sync
AVR output set to both and input to "through" - = 1080i/50 in, 1080P/50 out.

If I turn the scaler off in the AVR completley using VCR/DVR and Return then everything passes through perfectly including 1080/24fps.

The displays are:
JVC 42DS9 connected to HDMI out main (1080P 24fps compatible)
Mitsubishi HC5000 PJ connected to HDMI sub out (1080P 24fps compatible)

If I swap the displays over and put the LCD on sub and the PJ on main, exactly the same thing happens but on different displays...

Speaking to somebody at Onkyo they believe it could be a faulty HDMI board - but all the stories I've read about those going wrong (and there are a few...), they just seem to stop working and don't a pass a signal - at all.

Anybody help please?

[Uniquely]

Originally Posted by Basil Plumley

Speaking to somebody at Onkyo they believe it could be a faulty HDMI board - but all the stories I've read about those going wrong (and there are a few...), they just seem to stop working and don't a pass a signal - at all.

Anybody help please?

Unfortuantely I can't speak to your particular problem.... but I have seen HDMI problems that did not result in complete failure. One was with my Xbox 360. It started having vertical line and video drop out issues. I assumed it was the 360 and got a new one, but it did the same thing. I tracked it back to my onkyo 606 after some research. Turns out the hdmi can get to a point where it no longer like 1080P from game consoles. Switched the output of the 360 to 720P and never had another issue.

I am having a new issue with the same AVR. Could be HDMI related or could be heat related. The Onkyo on screen display only works when I first turn on the AVR. About 10 minutes later, all I can get is a blue screen when trying to access the OSD.

So it's possible to see HDMI degeneration and not complete failure I think.

[Basil Plumley]

Originally Posted by robinandtami

Unfortuantely I can't speak to your particular problem.... but I have seen HDMI problems that did not result in complete failure. One was with my Xbox 360. It started having vertical line and video drop out issues. I assumed it was the 360 and got a new one, but it did the same thing. I tracked it back to my onkyo 606 after some research. Turns out the hdmi can get to a point where it no longer like 1080P from game consoles. Switched the output of the 360 to 720P and never had another issue.

I am having a new issue with the same AVR. Could be HDMI related or could be heat related. The Onkyo on screen display only works when I first turn on the AVR. About 10 minutes later, all I can get is a blue screen when trying to access the OSD.

So it's possible to see HDMI degeneration and not complete failure I think.

Thanks for that...Onkyo have offered to swap the HDMI board out under warranty so I might just get that done before total meltdown...

On another issue, when my Sky HD signal passes through OK with the scaler switched on, the projector reports back that it's getting a vertical signal of 25hz...is that right?