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#21 | |
Junior Member
Jul 2008
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a) i'd rather have one screen that can do it all (i.e. scope screen) and have white bars then waste image hieght on a 16:9 with black bars. b) definitely cant afford an anamorph lens and i can definitely live with for this, my first home theatre. c) with my plan of using a curtain heavy curtains to frame the screen i can easily adjust them to cover the unused parts of the screen when not displaying a scoped image. d) lastly, im really beginning to consider a DIY screen. never thought i would but it seems pretty feesable. that way i can have a cine-scoped, framed. "100+ screen without taking away from the budget of other slightly more crucial aspects. like DOPE def tech speakers! can anyone help in the DIY screen department? links, success stories or even colossial failures? depending on the difficulty and price difference its either this or a Carada i think= http://www.carada.com/ProductInfo.as...N-SCREEN-C104P what do you guys think? and btw, +2 for brain getting a mod spot |
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#22 | |
Expert Member
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Scope screens are very cool (being biased, of course)-- I do think they provide a more immersive experience in your home theater. Human vision does tend to concentrate more on width than height. If you watch alot of scope material, it's the way to go. The zoom method for a CIH (constant image height) system works just fine-- you just need to hone your technique of zooming/focusing/lens shifting. Some people claim to do this very quickly (seconds). A lens does have certain benefits, and some can be quite affordable (1k or so)-- I can point you in the right direction if you ever have the itch. Using curtains for masking is a popular way of doing a CIH system-- it really lends a theater-like feel as that is how pro theaters do it. If you are looking for a system that you can purchase that is reasonably affordable, there is a guy who goes by Camarillo_Cinema on AVS that makes an automated masking system and curtains for CIH. See his website at: www.htiq.com Unfortunately, most of the other side masking systems out there are very expensive. As far as DIY screens go-- they can be done very professionally for not very much cost. The most popular materials are wood and aluminum frame. The guy I bought my screen from (Ruben at SMX) has a thread on how to make a screen frame for about $150 from frame materials you can buy from an art supply. You would then just staple or velcro screen material to the frame, and then hang it like a picture. The most popular screen material is probably BOC (black out cloth) that you can purchase from any fabric supply shop. You can also find a variety of screen materials out there on eBay, AVS, etc. Camarillo_Cinema's site above also sells a good screen material (Phifer SheerWeave) Here's Ruben's thread: www.smxscreen.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201 The DIY Screen section on AVS is also excellent: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=110 If you are not inclined towards carpentry, then the Carada screen with the brilliant white screen material is hard to beat at its price. From what I know, Carada's customer service is superb. A DaLite High Power is also reasonably affordable at your screen size (~$300 I think). The SMX proline screens (flat and curved) are also excellent, and reasonably affordable. Hope this helps. Again, thanks to you and the other fellas for your "nomination". I remain most flattered. Cheers mate. Last edited by Brain Sturgeon; 07-13-2008 at 08:57 PM. |
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#23 |
Site Manager
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If you're going to do a DIY screen with curtains or similar and use the zoom method, remember there are a few movies that are wider than 2.35/2.39/2.40 Scope, like the early CinemaScope 2.55 ones, and the UltraPanavision 2.75 ones like Battle of the Bulge (already on BD) and Ben Hur. Oh and the latest version of How The West Was Won seems is going to be 2.89 wide (I've seen it)
Something to keep in mind deciding the ultimate shape of your DIY screen (and if your wall width permits ![]() |
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#24 | |
Member
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My screen is in Australia, so probably not much help apart from the learning process (some great educational stuff there if you follow enough links) - see the MAJESTIC range at OZ Theatre Screens The room is 6.3 meters by 4.4 meters, so about 21 feet by 14.5 feet; the lounge is 15 feet from the screen. I used the rule of thumb that says, "the maximum viewing angle should be 30 degrees from the seating position". To calculate the maximum screen width to give that 30 degree angle, divide the seating distance by 1.7, so for me 4.7 meters / 1.7 = 2.70 meter wide screen The choices were the 16:9 125" screen at 2,768 x 1,557 cm. or 110" Scope screen at 2,956 x 1,334 cm - we took the 16:9 screen........... now, while we have this information, if someone can explain to me, what am I missing out on again? The 16:9 movies fill the whole screen, the TV is 4:3 and over 100" and CinemaScope movies go the full width of the screen and there are black bars, top and bottom (which we do not notice) - all this without making any adjustments to the projector focus, zoom in or out, or vertical adjustment, nothing......... so, I mean, the screen is as wide as can fit the room, so do I have CinemaScope or not? ![]() Hope it all goes well for you, yes, the curtains were my wife's idea (so easy to hide wiring ![]() ![]() |
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#25 | |
Expert Member
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Generally, Scope FP systems generally mean a CIH (constant image height) setup. Your setup is a typical 16:9-- the most common screen size with FP systems. What you gain with a scope system is additional width of the screen with the same height as your 16:9 picture. Using your current CIW (constant image width) system, your letterboxed material covers an area of 2768cm x 1178cm. In a CIH system, your letterboxed material would cover an area of 3659cm x 1557cm (2.35:1), and, of course, your 1.85:1 material would cover the same 2768cm x 1557cm that your have now; hence, CIH. That's the benefit of a CIH scope system: a wider, more immersive experience. HTH |
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