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Old 12-18-2008, 05:40 PM   #21
DavidAg02 DavidAg02 is offline
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This is a great post! I wish there had been something like this available a year ago when did my installation.

I followed those same steps, but pretty much had to learn as I went along. If you don't do a lot of wiring, and only have to run the cables a short distance than a coat hanger can easily the place of fish sticks or fish tape.

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Old 12-20-2008, 12:24 PM   #22
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With everyone asking about power cords in-wall, I spent most of the night going gooing through Article 400 of the NEC and there are not any cords made for in-wall/concealed work.
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Old 12-20-2008, 12:59 PM   #23
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Initially I was going to run the tv's power cable behind the wall (again, it's an open wall on one side). Then I decided since it is open and easily accessible, why not do it the right way? Would not take long to do, all my holes are drilled for running the wire and the studs are right there. Really easy to do.

Then another thought came to mind. What about surge protection? How do I manage that? We don't plug electronics directly into the wall. Not with the amount of brown outs and black outs we have. So then I look into the bridge outlet. Lets you plug it in to a surge protector. I really like the idea. However, not for $65 dollars.

I can't justify paying upwards of $100 dollars to run my cables 2 feet behind the wall. Doesn't make sense to me. So unless a more acceptable idea comes along, through the wall it is for free.
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Old 12-20-2008, 01:10 PM   #24
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^^^

I know this won't work for everyone, but I have a receptacle on the wall directly below where I mounted my TV. I "heard" that you can pull the receptacle out of the box and knock a hole in the top. Then cut a hole in the wall behind your TV, and push a piece of romex up to the hole and mount a box. Re-wire the bottom receptacle and get a recessed receptacle, like this for the top one.

le-689_1.jpg

Or hire an electrician to do it.
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Old 12-20-2008, 01:22 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob71 View Post
^^^

I know this won't work for everyone, but I have a receptacle on the wall directly below where I mounted my TV. I "heard" that you can pull the receptacle out of the box and knock a hole in the top. Then cut a hole in the wall behind your TV, and push a piece of romex up to the hole and mount a box. Re-wire the bottom receptacle and get a recessed receptacle, like this for the top one.

Attachment 4521

Or hire an electrician to do it.
Yeah, very easy to do as long as there are no cross braces on your studs. This is what I was going to do as well. However, unless your house has whole house surge protection, I would advise against plugging your expensive tv directly into the wall.
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Old 12-20-2008, 01:46 PM   #26
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Oh yeah, to follow code all you need is an enclosed box anywhere that wires are spliced together. All you have to do is get a high voltage rated box and mount that down where your surge protector is, and take a good power cord and cut the appliance end off. Then you can splice that to some romex inside that box and run the romex up to the TV location to a recessed outlet. You'll need a multi-tester, or some way to verify which wire in the power cord goes to which prong of the plug. The small spade should be the hot wire (black wire in romex) the larger spade should be the neutral (white romex) and the round prong is for ground (unshielded romex). Instead of paying $65, you could be spending about $10.

After all this talk, I might have to put in the outlet at my place. If I do decide to get off my ass and do it, I'll take some pictures and post it here.
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Old 12-20-2008, 04:27 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrinkMore View Post
Initially I was going to run the tv's power cable behind the wall (again, it's an open wall on one side). Then I decided since it is open and easily accessible, why not do it the right way? Would not take long to do, all my holes are drilled for running the wire and the studs are right there. Really easy to do.

Then another thought came to mind. What about surge protection? How do I manage that? We don't plug electronics directly into the wall. Not with the amount of brown outs and black outs we have. So then I look into the bridge outlet. Lets you plug it in to a surge protector. I really like the idea. However, not for $65 dollars.

I can't justify paying upwards of $100 dollars to run my cables 2 feet behind the wall. Doesn't make sense to me. So unless a more acceptable idea comes along, through the wall it is for free.
If your an AVS member you can get one for a slightly better $39.95.

http://www.powerbridgesolution.com/avsspecialorder.html

Not really a bad price considering you get everything but a 4' piece of romex.
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Old 12-20-2008, 06:00 PM   #28
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http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
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Old 12-20-2008, 07:20 PM   #29
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Just to clear things up, the black conductor or any color other than white or green goes the the brass screw of the receptacle, the white conductor(grounded conductor, it is only a neutral in a multi-wire branch circuit) goes to the silver screw and the ground goes to the green screw.

I build my bridge inlets and outlets for about $20. I get my parts from City Electric Supply, World Electric Supply, or HD Supply (formerly Hughes Supply).
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Old 12-20-2008, 07:26 PM   #30
DiverSpear DiverSpear is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phantompwr View Post
Oh yeah, to follow code all you need is an enclosed box anywhere that wires are spliced together. All you have to do is get a high voltage rated box and mount that down where your surge protector is, and take a good power cord and cut the appliance end off. Then you can splice that to some romex inside that box and run the romex up to the TV location to a recessed outlet.
What you are describe is the biggest code violation there is. If the cord is not UL listed and rated per Article 400 your nailed, both by the NEC and insurance company. Do not give electrical advice if you do not know the code, even if you do it makes you liable. Trust me I've been an Electrician for 20 years. If it is not installed per it's UL listing it is a violation!

You guys be careful not only can you smoke your gear but you can smoke you house.
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Old 12-20-2008, 07:59 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob71 View Post
If your an AVS member you can get one for a slightly better $39.95.

http://www.powerbridgesolution.com/avsspecialorder.html

Not really a bad price considering you get everything but a 4' piece of romex.

Now that is a good price! Much more manageable. I have a whole spool of romex. Lol - no issues there
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Old 12-20-2008, 08:07 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DiverSpear View Post
What you are describe is the biggest code violation there is. If the cord is not UL listed and rated per Article 400 your nailed, both by the NEC and insurance company. Do not give electrical advice if you do not know the code, even if you do it makes you liable. Trust me I've been an Electrician for 20 years. If it is not installed per it's UL listing it is a violation!

You guys be careful not only can you smoke your gear but you can smoke you house.
Really, the biggest violation?
I don't claim to have studied electrical code, I don't want to sound like I know what I am talking about. I probably should have said "buy a cord that you know is listed in the code and you can buy a plug for the end of it".
I'm just wondering, is it really that wrong to cut a decent power cord and use that? How would a normal person know what we can use and what we can't?
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Old 12-20-2008, 08:12 PM   #33
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Bought one of the bridge things for 39 bux. Can't go wrong. Safe, simple, clean look. What more can you ask for?
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Old 12-20-2008, 10:10 PM   #34
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Yeah that's not too bad a price for what you get. I think you might be able to find each of those pieces at a hardware store, the only one I'm not sure about is the inlet plate. I might take a look tomorrow, as soon as I can clean all the snow off my car.
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Old 12-20-2008, 10:15 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phantompwr View Post
Yeah that's not too bad a price for what you get. I think you might be able to find each of those pieces at a hardware store, the only one I'm not sure about is the inlet plate. I might take a look tomorrow, as soon as I can clean all the snow off my car.
I tried looking at lowes. Nothing. Was not even going to bother with home depot.
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Old 12-20-2008, 10:19 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrinkMore View Post
I tried looking at lowes. Nothing. Was not even going to bother with home depot.
Hmm, that doesn't sound promising. I will take a look anyway. Did you look in the store or just on the website? Sometimes they don't have everything online.
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Old 12-20-2008, 10:30 PM   #37
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Quote:
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Hmm, that doesn't sound promising. I will take a look anyway. Did you look in the store or just on the website? Sometimes they don't have everything online.
Never look online. Looked in the store.
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Old 12-20-2008, 10:42 PM   #38
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Good stuff. Now id like to see one through floors. Ive been curious about running speaker wire to my rears by under the floor (basement) and up the wall (living room), but have been worried about studs and wall pieces blocking. never done it before myself...
Ya...that can be fun. So many variables. Can be real easy or a real pain in the ars! Carpet runs are easier.
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Old 12-21-2008, 02:38 PM   #39
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I went to Home Depot this morning and didn't see anything. I asked a guy for help, but after being unable to locate what I was looking for, he told me I could use a GFCI outlet and that would offer me surge protection. I'm glad that I know how they work or I might have actually believed him.
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Old 12-21-2008, 04:25 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phantompwr View Post
Really, the biggest violation?
I don't claim to have studied electrical code, I don't want to sound like I know what I am talking about. I probably should have said "buy a cord that you know is listed in the code and you can buy a plug for the end of it".
I'm just wondering, is it really that wrong to cut a decent power cord and use that? How would a normal person know what we can use and what we can't?

Unfortunately a normal person would not know unless he/she bought a code book and studied it for about 2 years. The licensing that solarrdad and myself go through is quite extensive and it takes years to get the license. Which is why electricians charge so much. When playing with power, especially adding, a qualified electrician should be hired/consulted.
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