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Old 05-15-2010, 01:46 PM   #101
Darkthrone Darkthrone is offline
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If you need to run wire past 2x4 that are in the wall...is it better to re-do the drywall or is it doable with a long drillbit? Has anyone done this btw?
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Old 05-16-2010, 07:19 PM   #102
phantompwr phantompwr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkthrone View Post
If you need to run wire past 2x4 that are in the wall...is it better to re-do the drywall or is it doable with a long drillbit? Has anyone done this btw?
You can get drillbits that are long and flexible for something like that, but they are tricky to use. Then once you have the little hole, its hard to thread it with the wire or fish tape. It might be easier to cut holes in the drywall right in front of the stud, then notch the stud out, run the wire, and patch.
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Old 05-22-2010, 02:31 AM   #103
BLURAYSONYES BLURAYSONYES is offline
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This is from my personal website.

http://progressive-installations.com...ry2/index.html

There are many ways to run wires in your walls with the right tools. The first page shows like its that simple but it is not always the case. Every house is built different.

Any questions regarding running wires PM me.
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Old 06-23-2010, 03:15 AM   #104
xXI GaMe IXx xXI GaMe IXx is offline
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I'm about to attempt this with my mounted TV I'm going to use http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...mat=4#feedback. Will I need different Hdmi cables as well?
Will I be violating some kind of code?
How the hell do I find out if theres horizontal studs?
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Old 06-23-2010, 12:55 PM   #105
phantompwr phantompwr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xXI GaMe IXx View Post
I'm about to attempt this with my mounted TV I'm going to use http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...mat=4#feedback. Will I need different Hdmi cables as well?
Will I be violating some kind of code?
How the hell do I find out if theres horizontal studs?
The only way to find out if there is any horizontal blocking is to cut the hole and try and stick something up there. Blocking is pretty rare, just make sure there aren't pipes running up the wall (which you want to avoid anyway) and you'll probably be fine. You don't need any kind of special cables to use that, it just has a bulk plate which is basically a way to make a wide open hole in the wall look nice, so unless your HDMI cable has a ridiculously gigantic connector, it will fit right through it. Good luck!
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Old 06-26-2010, 05:35 PM   #106
xXI GaMe IXx xXI GaMe IXx is offline
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Ok guys I'm running the Hdmi cables down I have the

Low-voltage single-gang old work box.

bulk plate


What is that metal piece I'm missing between the two
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Old 10-08-2010, 08:55 PM   #107
Uxi Uxi is offline
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any tips on turning corners? I have the HDTV in a corner and would like to mount the surrounds and rear channels on the other end of the room and will need to go around at least one corner to get at 90 degrees for the surrounds, much less the rears.
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Old 12-14-2010, 09:24 PM   #108
ces-worshiper ces-worshiper is offline
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Has anyone found a source for the male end of the powerbridge setups? You can get the recessed wall outlets at home depot and running the romex and buying plastic boxes is easy enough.

The extension cord is available on amazon as well. Seems you should be able ot find these somewhere.......
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Old 06-23-2011, 03:42 AM   #109
ilass304 ilass304 is offline
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so i have a green power saving surge protector and it keeps tripping. Would this be because of the amount of joules it can handle or the actual amount of power being pulled. If either what can i do to resolve this situation. I am new to this whole thing and could use some usefull advice.
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Old 06-23-2011, 03:58 AM   #110
guitarist155 guitarist155 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ces-worshiper View Post
Has anyone found a source for the male end of the powerbridge setups? You can get the recessed wall outlets at home depot and running the romex and buying plastic boxes is easy enough.

The extension cord is available on amazon as well. Seems you should be able ot find these somewhere.......
I know i"m a bit late on this but I got mine from MCM electronics, they are power inlets or male edison. mine are decora single gang.
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Old 06-23-2011, 04:00 AM   #111
guitarist155 guitarist155 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ilass304 View Post
so i have a green power saving surge protector and it keeps tripping. Would this be because of the amount of joules it can handle or the actual amount of power being pulled. If either what can i do to resolve this situation. I am new to this whole thing and could use some usefull advice.
my guess would be that you have exceeded the load rating.. you will have to get another to share some of the load, or find one that handles more current. it is a bad idea to keep using it overloaded on the off chance that it might not trip and could cause a fire.
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Old 06-24-2011, 01:21 AM   #112
ilass304 ilass304 is offline
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just got two livewire pc1100
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Old 04-08-2012, 12:09 AM   #113
Refnoredcard Refnoredcard is offline
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Default Shielding spkr cable next to 120VAC power line?

I'm putting sound in a house (not mine) and have a problem in one room. The volume control for the room will have to be mounted directly above the light/fan variable control switch, and the speaker wire both down and up will run in close proximity to the AC wiring to the room lights and fan (it's a den with a fan, not a bathroom!). There is 3.75" between the studs, and I'm not going to rip out the portion of the wall up to the ceiling just to tack the speaker wire onto the stud opposite the one with the AC wires. And putting the volume control in another location is not an option.

Should I consider shielding the speaker wires from the attic down to the volume control, say with something like metal braided techflex, and grounding one end of the braid to the AC ground? (Getting shielded wiring is also not an option...already have plenty of 14/2 & 14/4 to use.)

Thanks!
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Old 04-08-2012, 08:32 PM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Refnoredcard View Post
I'm putting sound in a house (not mine) and have a problem in one room. The volume control for the room will have to be mounted directly above the light/fan variable control switch, and the speaker wire both down and up will run in close proximity to the AC wiring to the room lights and fan (it's a den with a fan, not a bathroom!). There is 3.75" between the studs, and I'm not going to rip out the portion of the wall up to the ceiling just to tack the speaker wire onto the stud opposite the one with the AC wires. And putting the volume control in another location is not an option.

Should I consider shielding the speaker wires from the attic down to the volume control, say with something like metal braided techflex, and grounding one end of the braid to the AC ground? (Getting shielded wiring is also not an option...already have plenty of 14/2 & 14/4 to use.)

Thanks!
I don't think over that distance for speaker level signal it would make enough difference to spend the extra money to shield speaker wire, I wouldn't worry about it.
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Old 04-10-2012, 04:17 AM   #115
Refnoredcard Refnoredcard is offline
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Default More: Shielding spkr cable next to 120VAC power line?

Quote:
Originally Posted by phantompwr View Post
I don't think over that distance for speaker level signal it would make enough difference to spend the extra money to shield speaker wire, I wouldn't worry about it.
Thanks for the feedback. What worries me a bit is that for the ~5 feet that the speaker wire (14/4 down and up) will be running along side the AC wire controlling the room light and fan (both variable controls), will I pickup noise from the motor? I haven't had issues running in-wall speaker wire over or next to romex for short lengths, but then never done so right next one running a motor (which historically are electrically noisy due to the brushes).

Cost for metal shielding would be $40, not a big expense, but a lot more work to put it in and ground it.

Further thoughts?
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Old 04-11-2012, 05:24 PM   #116
phantompwr phantompwr is offline
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Motors do tend to introduce extra noise, but I don't have any experience testing the effects on nearby speaker wire. I am pretty sure that speaker level signals are affected much less than line or microphone level ones, but it sounds like you want to be safe, and the jacket you suggest would definitely do the trick. If you had the opportunity to test this before the installation (running power to a motor next to a speaker wire just lying on the ground or something) I'd love to know the outcome.
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Old 04-12-2012, 11:17 AM   #117
Refnoredcard Refnoredcard is offline
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Default More: Shielding spkr cable next to 120VAC power line?

Quote:
Originally Posted by phantompwr View Post
Motors do tend to introduce extra noise, but I don't have any experience testing the effects on nearby speaker wire. I am pretty sure that speaker level signals are affected much less than line or microphone level ones, but it sounds like you want to be safe, and the jacket you suggest would definitely do the trick. If you had the opportunity to test this before the installation (running power to a motor next to a speaker wire just lying on the ground or something) I'd love to know the outcome.
Again, thanks! In the hardware store Monday walked by the conduit...duh, much cheaper way than flex braid (KISS). My plan is to run the wire without, test it, then put in the conduit (picked up 6ft of it) if I need it. My current experience is running the speakers on my workbench next to the drill press (drill press came later)...wouldn't be a prob I guess if I liked heavy metal music!
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Old 10-30-2013, 07:32 PM   #118
WillBrandon WillBrandon is offline
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Wow, this is useful I bought Vogels mount wall panels and try to figure it out in terms of hiding all the cables...
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Old 12-11-2016, 08:31 PM   #119
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Any suggestions on running these wires through walls with insulation inside? Also, will be fishing wire through framing into subfloor. Any tips there? I'm planning on running wire on opposite side of where electrical wire/outlets were run.
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Old 12-12-2016, 06:59 PM   #120
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Wow, glad to see people are still watching this thread. The techniques I laid out in my post should be the same for walls with insulation, you'll just have a lot less luck without any kind of fishpole.
As far as going through the floor, you'll need a good drill and bit to cut the hole, we always use auger bits because they are much faster and easier but if you're only making one hole you can use whatever. Just make sure you line it up correctly, nobody wants a hole in their floor. A quick and dirty way to double check you're in the right place is to put an insulation hanger (it's about a 16" long wire with sharp ends) in your drill and drill it into the floor right next to the wall you want to make the hole into. Either on the crack between floorboards or anywhere in carpet.
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