Sub setup taking too long

[ps3-user]

I have read, read and read. I have played around with my subwoofer, but I can't get the numbers I think I should be getting.

First I started off with the sub 12" and ~4 feet from the wall. The original attachment shows the numbers I got from it. I moved it 5 inches and ~4 feet from the wall, 5" and 12" from the wall, and got near the same numbers.

So today I started crawling around with my spl meter (sub in sitting position). I found a spot that was getting 1-3 db higher in the 32-28 range. So I placed the sub in that spot. Ran through the numbers and was disappointed. Pulled it 12", 9", and 6" from the wall and got almost identical numbers. You can see the current attachment.

I know I made a mistake of playing the subwoofer too loud in the original file.

I also uploaded a picture of somebody else who posted their results from the h100. I have two different pictures from two people who got almost the same results.

I have looked through both subwoofer stickies. I did not want to ask, because I probably am missing something simple, but I am tired of playing with this.

[Big Daddy]

Normally, the best location for one subwoofer in HT applications is up front in a corner about a foot away from the side walls. The subwoofer in the corner will use the side walls and give you more output and it is for free.

However, if your goal is a perfectly flat curve, you can only do limited things by changing the location of the sub. A riser may help. Ultimately, you will need a sub equalizer. Also, it is good idea to remember that a perfectly flat curve may not necessarily sound the best to you. Our ears and our brains are not perfect. We do not hear all frequencies equally and we react differently to different frequencies.

[kareface]

I agree that a perfectly flat curve isn't ideal for most people. However he does have a deviation of 16db a points, which is pretty extreme. Do you have 7-8 foot ceiling? I know it's a common number for ceilings but I'm asking for a reason. Also, what SPL meter are you using for the measurements and what test tones are you using? What is the correct line represent? Not the phase I assume?

[ps3-user]

Originally Posted by kareface

I agree that a perfectly flat curve isn't ideal for most people. However he does have a deviation of 16db a points, which is pretty extreme. Do you have 7-8 foot ceiling? I know it's a common number for ceilings but I'm asking for a reason. Also, what SPL meter are you using for the measurements and what test tones are you using? What is the correct line represent? Not the phase I assume?

8' ceilings. The room is only ~1000 cubic feet. I am using a radio shack digital meter. I forgot where I got my tones from, but you can see the ones I use in the excel document. It is mostly 80-26 at 4hz intervals. However, starting at 36, I go 36,32,31.5,30,29,28,26.

I got my correct line from
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=505236


If I do decided to put it in the corner, should it be sideways, or facing straight? (pic 1 or 2) or do I need to just test both ways?

[Driver_King]

Horizontal positioning is just as important as vertical positioning. You should try raising your subwoofer up to 2' off the ground. 5"-10" is usually most practical. If you have the means and no interference with WAF, you could also chain up your subwoofer to hang from the ceiling as well.

[crazyBLUE]

Originally Posted by Driver_King

Horizontal positioning is just as important as vertical positioning. You should try raising your subwoofer up to 2' off the ground. 5"-10" is usually most practical. If you have the means and no interference with WAF, you could also chain up your subwoofer to hang from the ceiling as well.

I think A subwoofer sounds Great 2 feet off the ground & 2 subwoofers 2 feet off the ground is even better

[kareface]

Do you have a laptop? I can make your life a lot easier if you do.

As for testing, yes you should test both positions. I think a lot of the time the ideal positions are ones people don't really consider. Things like having the sub face away from them or lifting it off the floor a few feet. Can you give me the exact dimensions of your room and if there are any openings in the room?

[ps3-user]

Yea, I have a laptop (does not have a sound card though). It is 12x11.5x8. Only openings are a closet door and entrance/exit door, both of which stay closed.

[kareface]

Damn. If you could find a cheap USB sound card I could help you with taking measurements a lot faster, lol.

[ps3-user]

Originally Posted by kareface

Damn. If you could find a cheap USB sound card I could help you with taking measurements a lot faster, lol.

I can take my desktop tower to the room. It has an audigy 2 zs sound card on it.

Let me look into what else I need.

Are you talking about using the roomeqwizard or something else?

I can't figure out how to connect all the cables. I don't have a BFD which is shown in the REW's help guide.

[kareface]

Originally Posted by ps3-user

I can take my desktop tower to the room. It has an audigy 2 zs sound card on it.

Let me look into what else I need.

Are you talking about using the roomeqwizard or something else?

I can't figure out how to connect all the cables. I don't have a BFD which is shown in the REW's help guide.

You don't need a BFD, there are a couple good free programs for running sweeps, but that one is a widely used one. The only problem with the computer is the background noise it'll generate. Ideally you'd use a laptop, but a quite computer can work too.

[TKNice]

I'm very interested in calibrating my room too...is there a recommended usb soundcard?

I guess step 1 is getting a decent sound meter and I haven't even done that!

-TK

[GregBe]

Originally Posted by TKNice

I'm very interested in calibrating my room too...is there a recommended usb soundcard?

I guess step 1 is getting a decent sound meter and I haven't even done that!

-TK

I use a Creative Soundblaster MP3+, which works great. It is no longer in production, but check on Craig's List or Ebay. I got mine for like $5 locally.

[kareface]

Originally Posted by TKNice

I'm very interested in calibrating my room too...is there a recommended usb soundcard?

I guess step 1 is getting a decent sound meter and I haven't even done that!

-TK

If you aren't worried about full range, the cheapest option would be to use a Behringer UCA202, and a Galaxy CM-140 is a great meter for doing low end measurements. If you go full range, you should get a calibrated microphone, which will likely require a preamp which makes the costs jump quite a bit. If you are only doing 20-200hz tho, the RS meter isn't awful.

[kingofgrills]

Kareface, I have the Radio Shack SPL meter. Which analysis program would you recommend to use with it? 20-200 covers my needs, for now, and I'd like to find a program that quickly and fairly accurately analyzes my space.

Thank you for your help with this.

[BillCinLR]

Most of the rest of the Subwoofer/Audio world uses REW:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/rew-forum/

This forum will give you all of the hardware/setup/user information you need.

Bill C