Connecting 2 subs

[Mordir]

How important is it to run the sub cable lengths equally? If I run an 8' and a 40' cable will that be there be a very noticeable delay?

[erict]

Originally Posted by Mordir

How important is it to run the sub cable lengths equally? If I run an 8' and a 40' cable will that be there be a very noticeable delay?

Why a 40' cable?

[Big Daddy]

Originally Posted by Mordir

How important is it to run the sub cable lengths equally? If I run an 8' and a 40' cable will that be there be a very noticeable delay?

No, there shouldn't be a problem. Electrons move too fast to worry about a few feet.

Make sure you adjust the level of each subwoofer independently so that each one gives you approximately the same level of output at your main listening position. Otherwise, one will dominate the other one.

[Mordir]

Originally Posted by erict

Why a 40' cable?

So I can run the cable for the rear sub through the walls for W.A.F. which is so important.

Originally Posted by Big Daddy

No, there shouldn't be a problem. Electrons move too fast to worry about a few feet.

Make sure you adjust the level of each subwoofer independently so that each one gives you approximately the same level of output at your main listening position. Otherwise, one will dominate the other one.

Thanks for the response and tip!

[Fors*]

Originally Posted by Mordir

So I can run the cable for the rear sub through the walls for W.A.F. which is so important.



Thanks for the response and tip!

Mordir, if you are going to run a 40' audio cable thru the wall that far, I recommend running two, so that if the one cable ever gives you a problem in the future for whatever reason, you will already have a back-up cable pre-run and handy instead of having to try to re-run the cable thru the wall all over again.

[JamesN]

Originally Posted by Fors*

...I recommend running two, so that if the one cable ever gives you a problem in the future for whatever reason, you will already have a back-up cable pre-run...

I can see that you're a belt and suspenders man!

I'm just finishing up a renovation on my HT, including replacing all of my in-wall cabling. I simply used the old cabling to pull through the new where necessary. I could never afford back-up cabling for everything! (Not to mention all the in-wall space it would occupy!)

[Fors*]

Originally Posted by JamesN

I can see that you're a belt and suspenders man!

I'm just finishing up a renovation on my HT, including replacing all of my in-wall cabling. I simply used the old cabling to pull through the new where necessary. I could never afford back-up cabling for everything! (Not to mention all the in-wall space it would occupy!)

Learn the hard way or don't learn at all!

[zicmubleu]

I would think a key issue is using a shielded cable if these are powered subs. That is a lot of cable length for a low power application that could be running close to A/C powering, etc. Of course shielding does little good unless it is properly grounded. I would also suggest that it is in-wall rated (plenum), even if it is low power.

[kareface]

If he give it a couple feet he'll be ok with generic cable. You just need to make sure you keep them away from the power cables in the walls whenever possible. Also, shielding can help, but twisted pairs would much better for that solution.

[Mordir]

This is the cable I am using.

http://bluejeanscable.com/store/subw...sign-notes.htm

LC-1 Audio Cable Specs:

Physical Characteristics:
Center Conductor - Solid Bare Copper, 25 AWG
Dielectric - Nitrogen-Injected Low-Density Polyethylene
Shield - Braid/Braid, 98% coverage, bare copper
Outer diameter - .305 inch
Certifications:
UL Listing: Yes
NEC Rating: CM (Communications rated; suitable for residential and commercial in-wall installation)

Electrical Characteristics:
Capacitance, conductor to shield: 12.2 pF/ft
Resistance, center conductor: 34 ohms/1000 feet
Resistance, shield: 1.7 ohms/1000 feet

[Driver_King]

Originally Posted by Mordir

How important is it to run the sub cable lengths equally? If I run an 8' and a 40' cable will that be there be a very noticeable delay?

As a general rule, as long as the cable is properly shielded (RG6 is preferred), you shouldn't need to worry much about the length as the delay would likely be undetectable.

[ryan4blu]

just wanted to ask when you have 2 matching subs together how do you calibrate them so as they dont phase each other out? should i have them at the same settings on both? i have 2 cambridge soundworks newton P1000 subs and i want to use both in my HT room. got one in the front right corner and one in the back left corner. how should i do the settings on the each sub? thanks

[erict]

Originally Posted by ryan4blu

just wanted to ask when you have 2 matching subs together how do you calibrate them so as they dont phase each other out? should i have them at the same settings on both? i have 2 cambridge soundworks newton P1000 subs and i want to use both in my HT room. got one in the front right corner and one in the back left corner. how should i do the settings on the each sub? thanks

Here is BD sticky that will help you. Look half way down the first post.

https://forum.blu-ray.com/subwoofers...anagement.html

And this is about phase, about half way down the first post.

https://forum.blu-ray.com/subwoofers...justments.html

[Fors*]

Originally Posted by ryan4blu

just wanted to ask when you have 2 matching subs together how do you calibrate them so as they dont phase each other out? should i have them at the same settings on both? i have 2 cambridge soundworks newton P1000 subs and i want to use both in my HT room. got one in the front right corner and one in the back left corner. how should i do the settings on the each sub? thanks

I asked the same question when I got my second PC-12, and this was the reply I got....

Here's the calibration routine for dual subwoofers so you can ensure they're playing well together:

1. Set the AVR master volume to 0.0

2. Set the phase to 0 on both subs.

3. Set the SPL meter to C-weighted Slow 70 scale at the listening position, at head level, pointed at the front stage, and angled upward at a 45 degree angle.

4. Play the test tones for all speaker channels and adjust each channel to 75 dB on the meter (that would be +5 on the meter when set to the 70 scale).

5. Set the subwoofer channel level to +1 in the AVR.

6. Turn on subwoofer #1 only. Play the subwoofer test tone and adjust the gain on subwoofer #1 until the SPL meter reads 72-74 dB (it will fluctuate so try for an average of 73 dB).

7. Turn on subwoofer #2 only. Play the subwoofer test tone and adjust the gain on subwoofer #2 until the SPL meter reads 72-74 dB (it will fluctuate so try for an average of 73 dB).

8. Turn on both subwoofers. Play the subwoofer test tone and verify there is a 6 dB increase to 78-80 dB (an average of 79 dB).

9. If there is not a 6 dB increase, adjust the phase on the CLOSER subwoofer until you get the most possible reinforcement. If the subs are separated, you may only get 4 dB max. A helper is useful at this point.

10. Once you have achieved the most possible reinforcement, reduce the subwoofer channel level until the combined SPL with both subwoofers running is 73-75 dB on average.

If yours are the same distance away, you really shouldn't need to mess with phase as it's a distance-related adjustment.

[ryan4blu]

Originally Posted by Fors*

I asked the same question when I got my second PC-12, and this was the reply I got....

thanks, will give it a shot