Pacific Rim 4K UHD (2013)

[Geoff D]

Originally Posted by ray0414

1 thing I agree with velvet on, is that the upscale itself is not a noticeable improvement. The hdr is very good, but a reference blu ray disc not become noticeably sharper to my eyes like other great upscales. Not to beat that same old drum, but I've yet to see a movie filmed mostly with Red cameras that had a fantastic uprez. Movies like Hacksaw, furious 7 have sharper pictures with cleaner refinement. The spectral HDR is very good though.

Yeah, for whatever reaons dat Alexa sure does upscale nicely, boss!

[puddy77]

Originally Posted by imsounoriginal

How do I find out my TV's peak nits? I've been Googling around but can't seem to find that info. I know mine's not top of the line but I'd like to get a definitive answer.

I believe the KU6290 is basically the same panel as the KU6300. Have a look at the picture quality section of this Rtings review: http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/ku6300

[StingingVelvet]

Originally Posted by imsounoriginal

How do I find out my TV's peak nits? I've been Googling around but can't seem to find that info. I know mine's not top of the line but I'd like to get a definitive answer.

I got mine from Rtings, but it doesn't seem like they reviewed the 6290. Can the 6290 be that different from my 6300 though? I doubt it.

Worth noting Rtings updated my TV's review since I last looked and lowered the peak nits to 450ish due to a firmware update darkening the output a bit. Weird. I've had like 3 firmware updates the last month though so maybe they corrected it back. Who knows.

Edit: Ninja'd.

[imsounoriginal]

Originally Posted by puddy77

I believe the KU6290 is basically the same panel as the KU6300. Have a look at the picture quality section of this Rtings review: http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/ku6300

Thanks. I see some discrepancies between the models (like mine's 120Hz, not 60Hz), but at least this gives me an idea. Other answers from reviews I've read are kind of all over the place.

[OI8T12]

Originally Posted by StingingVelvet

I got mine from Rtings, but it doesn't seem like they reviewed the 6290. Can the 6290 be that different from my 6300 though? I doubt it.

Worth noting Rtings updated my TV's review since I last looked and lowered the peak nits to 450ish due to a firmware update darkening the output a bit. Weird. I've had like 3 firmware updates the last month though so maybe they corrected it back. Who knows.

Edit: Ninja'd.

Originally Posted by imsounoriginal

Thanks. I see some discrepancies between the models (like mine's 120Hz, not 60Hz), but at least this gives me an idea. Other answers from reviews I've read are kind of all over the place.

What size do you guys have? I have the 55" model. Have you guys done any calibrating yet? I haven't touched a thing on my TV yet. It looks pretty good right out of the box.

Sorry for being off topic, but I figured this might be good time to ask a few questions.

[puddy77]

Originally Posted by imsounoriginal

Thanks. I see some discrepancies between the models (like mine's 120Hz, not 60Hz), but at least this gives me an idea. Other answers from reviews I've read are kind of all over the place.

I believe the only difference is Bluetooth. Yours is 60Hz as well. Samsung markets it as a "Motion Rate" of 120. But it's a 60Hz panel with 120Hz motion strobing. See the motion section under image flicker.

[imsounoriginal]

Originally Posted by OI8T12

What size do you guys have? I have the 55" model. Have you guys done any calibrating yet? I haven't touched a thing on my TV yet. It looks pretty good right out of the box.

Sorry for being off topic, but I figured this might be good time to ask a few questions.

Mine's just 40", couldn't really get anything bigger within my budget and I was moving at the time so I wasn't sure exactly what kinda space I'd be dealing with. But for my purposes, I'm happy with it. I did a basic calibration with my Xbox One, which has its own built-in thing for calibrating brightness, contrast, etc., and then I fiddled around with the settings some more as I started watching more and more discs to fine-tune things like gamma and so on. It's kind of an ongoing process but I think I have everything at a place where I'm happy. I no longer need to fiddle with stuff on a disc-to-disc basis, which is the ultimate goal lol

Originally Posted by puddy77

I believe the only difference is Bluetooth. Yours is 60Hz as well. Samsung markets it as a "Motion Rate" of 120. But it's a 60Hz panel with 120Hz motion strobing. See the motion section under image flicker.

Ah ok, thanks for clarifying. Having watched the panel for about three months now, it fooled me. Quick action is pretty well handled as long as I keep the MotionFlow custom setting on 1.

[StingingVelvet]

Originally Posted by OI8T12

What size do you guys have? I have the 55" model. Have you guys done any calibrating yet? I haven't touched a thing on my TV yet. It looks pretty good right out of the box.

Sorry for being off topic, but I figured this might be good time to ask a few questions.

I spent a lot of time with test patterns and whatnot after putting it in movie mode and the only thing I ended up changing was lowering brightess (black level) one notch to 44. Everything else was kind of perfect out of the box on movie mode, including gamma. Well, other than backlight, but that's a set to taste thing, there's no test or ideal setting. My backlight is at 50%, any higher and I start to see greyer blacks and light bleed from the edges.

HDR is a whole other animal though. There are some test patterns I might buy but nothing free yet. You can kinda maybe eyeball it by comparing to blu-ray for a general brightness and color standard, but it's difficult. Only thing I have modified right now is a small bump in color through the player, but I do think my blacks are a little too grey in HDR and keep meaning to get around to testing a lower brightness to see if I lose detail.

[Geoff D]

Backlight directly affects luminance though, and seeing as the intended light output for SDR 709 content is 100 nits then my SDR calibrated settings are matched to that (backlight is at 1 out of 10 on my Sony).

[imsounoriginal]

I keep my backlight high, usually 14 or 15. It's my weakness. Also I tend to avoid all the settings like Movie or Warm. Everything's standard and then I modify from there.

[Geoff D]

Warm is where the colour temperature should be set though, which will get you nearer to the intended 6500K colour temp that these things are designed to be viewed at (UHD shares the same D65 white point, incidentally). But as with the luminance level you can only measure it objectively using a colourimeter and software.

[imsounoriginal]

I dunno, I just can't stand that warm yellow-y look. I'll play around with it but I'm probably gonna end up keeping it where it is right now.

[StingingVelvet]

Originally Posted by Geoff D

Backlight directly affects luminance though, and seeing as the intended light output for SDR 709 content is 100 nits then my SDR calibrated settings are matched to that (backlight is at 1 out of 10 on my Sony).

I know, but I think you can suit it to taste as long as you don't go bonkers. Some reviews for my set recommended 80% backlight which is insane, but 50% has a negligible effect on picture quality IMO and looks nicer. I did put it down to 40% for a while though, testing it out. Who knows where I will settle for the long haul.

What's funny is HDR content has peaks way higher than a normal BD at even 100% backlight. Outdoor daytime scenes on Ghostbusters or Miss Peregrine for example look like backlight to the max, which makes me want to raise it on BD, though I know it will destroy dark scenes.

Originally Posted by imsounoriginal

I dunno, I just can't stand that warm yellow-y look. I'll play around with it but I'm probably gonna end up keeping it where it is right now.

If you put it on Warm2 and watch it that way for a week or two even Warm1 will look terribly blue and wrong afterward. It's all about getting used to a natural image.

[mzupeman]

Originally Posted by StingingVelvet

I know, but I think you can suit it to taste as long as you don't go bonkers. Some reviews for my set recommended 80% backlight which is insane, but 50% has a negligible effect on picture quality IMO and looks nicer. I did put it down to 40% for a while though, testing it out. Who knows where I will settle for the long haul.

What's funny is HDR content has peaks way higher than a normal BD at even 100% backlight. Outdoor daytime scenes on Ghostbusters or Miss Peregrine for example look like backlight to the max, which makes me want to raise it on BD, though I know it will destroy dark scenes.



If you put it on Warm2 and watch it that way for a week or two even Warm1 will look terribly blue and wrong afterward. It's all about getting used to a natural image.

I have personally never been able to get used to Warm2. I tried it for a month way back when, and just came to the conclusion I'm way more of a 'Warm 1' kind of guy.

[sapiendut]

It depends on your age and your exposure to the sun. The more of either (or both) the more your eyes will have yellow bias. I never had any problem with warm2 but 20 years later, although warm 1 is still too blue for me, warm 2 is a bit to yellow for me too. Right now, when measured, the warmest I can deal with is is at around 6800K as opposed to 20 years ago at 6500K.

[HeatEquation]

Originally Posted by StingingVelvet

I'm not sure what your goal here is dude. I said the HDR and color on Pacific Rim are great. My set does HDR on some level, and accepts a 10bit signal, and those aspects of the disc are a nice improvement. It's the detail I think is no big leap, and my set does detail just fine. So like... what the heck are you talking about? Honest question, you're baffling me right now.

Unfortunately, it's not that simple. Of course your TV has a native resolution of 3840 × 2160, but how often to you see static images on your TV? Motion resolution is very important, especially for movies since they are 24p, and that is dependent on how well the TV handles motion. You can check to see what rtings has to say about the motion handling of your TV.

So it could be the case that your TV is not displaying all of the details that are present in higher end TVs.

Additionally, proper HDR can add quite a bit to the overall level of detail.

[legends of beyond]

Originally Posted by sapiendut

It depends on your age and your exposure to the sun. The more of either (or both) the more your eyes will have yellow bias. I never had any problem with warm2 but 20 years later, although warm 1 is still too blue for me, warm 2 is a bit to yellow for me too. Right now, when measured, the warmest I can deal with is is at around 6800K as opposed to 20 years ago at 6500K.

Guess I've had enough sun.

[sapiendut]

If I had known, I would've worn my sunglasses everywhere.

[StingingVelvet]

Originally Posted by HeatEquation

Unfortunately, it's not that simple. Of course your TV has a native resolution of 3840 × 2160, but how often to you see static images on your TV? Motion resolution is very important, especially for movies since they are 24p, and that is dependent on how well the TV handles motion. You can check to see what rtings has to say about the motion handling of your TV.

So it could be the case that your TV is not displaying all of the details that are present in higher end TVs.

I'm comparing still frames without motion, obviously. This stuff is tiring though, if you want to believe Pacific Rim is some detail revelation of an upscale and my poor house shit just can't see it then believe that. I couldn't care less at this point.

[HeatEquation]

Originally Posted by StingingVelvet

I'm comparing still frames without motion, obviously. This stuff is tiring though, if you want to believe Pacific Rim is some detail revelation of an upscale and my poor house shit just can't see it then believe that. I couldn't care less at this point.

I never said that, just pointing out that there's more to it than native resolution.

I actually wouldn't put Pacific Rim in my top 5 in terms of PQ, but it is a pretty significant upgrade over BD.