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#61 |
Super Moderator
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Not unless I see him at closing time.
Honestly, I did not see anything else...inside or out...that might possibly be a sump pump. Maybe its wired for one, just in case? ![]() ![]() oh well. Anyways, I really wanted to get the basement dimensions so I could draw up some sort of floor plan to brainstorm ideas of possible room placement. Most likely I will have to wait to move in for any of that. Now I just have my fingers crossed the Bank ok's the loan. I would hate to have spent $300 for a home inspection and not even get the house?!! |
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#62 | |
Special Member
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![]() I haven't read the rest of this thread and I just stumbled upon it tonight, but I have some advice for you that you may want to consider. I bought my house about 2.5 years ago and my basement was also unfinished, although a bit smaller than yours (800 sq. ft). The main thing is that if you don't need the whole thing finished at once, then DON'T think about it like that ![]() The best thing about it is that it is YOUR house ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I finally finished mine off in the spring, the bathroom was the final part. I'm just saying that if you are open to learn and work on some of it yourself it is very rewarding. Have fun with it! This thread will be great to see your progress and how it turns out. Congrats again! |
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#63 | ||
Super Moderator
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Thanks for the kind words and inspiration!
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Once I get a better idea of the basement size and layout, I would love everyones advice/info on what steps I will need to take to accomplish each task. Im off to bed now, but thanks for the reply's ![]() |
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#64 |
Active Member
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Plumbing and electrical aren't all that difficult - if you're daunted by it, hardware stores generally have a pretty good selection of books that walk you through all the basics... I finished my mother's basement on her new house and did pretty much everything except installing the plumbing in the concrete for toilets and cutting the concrete for the egress windows... you'll probabley want to hire that out
![]() ![]() If you're looking to contract out, a great place to start would be to speak with your realtor, banker, and closing agents as they generally do alot of worker with contractors. Good luck! |
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#65 |
Active Member
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I can't see your photos right now, I may add comments later.
Here's some thoughts and suggestions. I built a kitchen, a large storage room and a HT in the unfinished portion of our basement. I did almost all the work myself, starting with concreted floor and poured concrete walls, so I did all the framing, electrical, plumbing, etc. It cost me roughly $5500 altogether for my finished spaces, I'm thinking turnkey would have been triple or more. I had the carpet and acoustic tiled ceiling installed, plus help with the sheetrock. Shop around. I got a sheetrock estimate of $4500. Through word of mouth we found the husband of one of my wife's co-workers who had just finished as part of a crew of a major commercial job. He was waiting word on another big job. A worked as his sheetrock crew. He did all the finish work. For the sheetrock and to hang the acoustic tile ceiling, he charged me $1,000 plus materials. Sheetrock plus mud was ~$350 and the black ceiling tiles and suspension was around $450. Things I did right All in wall speaker wire is run through conduit. If I ever want to add more or change gauge, it will be easy. I used 12 AWG in wall rated speaker wire for my 7.1 system, with the L/C/R wired for bi-amping. I've got 300' of speaker wire in the system. I also ran a conduit for the subwoofer line in cable. I built a large (10'x12') storage room adjacent to the HT. I built a table in the storage room and mounted an equipment rack on it. The equipment rack is in the wall of the HT. It has a smoked glass door, which I can close to block equipment noise and dim the panel lights. The IR remotes work fine. I can walk up to the back of the equipment rack and easily make any wiring changes. I didn't buy a screen. We very carefully finished the screen wall. I primed it with Killz, then painted a screen with Sherwin William's "Grey Screen" color (a very light grey). I used the mounted projector to mark the screen area. I went with a 120" diagonal screen, based on room size, viewing distance, projector resolution, etc. BTW, the HT is totally light controlled. We run cinema mode, which is dimmer. In addition to a more film like look, it saves bulb life. The image looks great! I used black acoustic tile and dark wall colors. This really helps with IQ. I have 9' ceilings. This really helped with mounting the projector high and with getting the projector offset correct and allowing me to mount the projector level with no need for keystone correction. The adjacent kitchen is great. We can prepare snacks, wash dinner dishes, and have cold beverages handy. I came across some barely used Kraft Maid cabinets. With counter tops, I paid $400 for all! Things I would have done differently The HT is 16x20, plus there's an area to the left. We can comfortably seat six adults and have had as many as 10 watching at once. If I had a big family or more than four adults viewing at once, I would prefer the room to be longer, say 16x24. 18x28 would be even better! It took me 7 months of a few nights a week plus most weekends to finish. My wife and I are now spoiled. We have better picture quality and much better sound than the local cineplexes. We also have 25 cent popcorn and much better wine! |
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#66 |
Blu-ray Count
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Hello,
My basement has no drian and no sump pump. Concrete is rough. I would not skip the sub-floor. It's not very expensive or hard to install. I also wouldn't put hard wood in a HT but that's just because it seems like it would cause audio problems. Of course... You gotta do it your way and that's fine. I can't imagine skipping the subfloor though. It's like it goes from being a swimming pool without water (only rougher) to being a normal living space. EDIT- I can't see your pics. I think my web-filter in installed for the kidz is scared. I'll have to see if I can find some way to force it to trust ya. ![]() =Brian Last edited by bhampton; 08-20-2009 at 01:22 PM. |
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#68 |
Blu-ray Count
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I got no creak from my subfloor.
I had carpet installed above it. (I bought a large left over piece of carpet and they priced it near the installed price just to tempt me to have it done.) I figured the sub-floor would make it warmer and comfy-er and also improve the acoustics. (Echo used to be extreme in the un-finished basement.) I suppose.... It's easy enough to do later though. I just pulled carpet out of my living room in preperation to DIY hard wood and it's a snap to pull up carpet. (Must be a bit harder to install but thankfully I still don't know.) Of course... Carpet requires all those boarder strips you have to nail down and doing that into concrete would be ugly. (Unless you glue them.) Edit- Wood floors don't all creak. Even creaky stairs can (sometimes) be repaired to stop creaking. -Brian |
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#69 |
Blu-ray Champion
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Creaky stairs are my biggest pet peeve. It doesn't matter what house I've been in, new, old, million dollar show homes etc. all the friggin stairs creak!! I think the only real solution is to make treads and risers out of steel instead of wood.
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#70 |
Special Member
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I have a drain in my basement. I did not do a subfloor. I just did carpet on concrete. The border strips are fine into the concrete, they make special nails for that. Mine turned out fine, not ugly at all. I did use the better thicker pad underneath the carpet. It turned out great. We have been very pleased with the results.
My ceilings in the basement are 7'. This is one of the reasons I elected to not do a sub floor as I would have even less headroom ![]() |
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#71 |
Junior Member
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well my guess for a finished basement without the home theater of that size would cost around 15k, that is about how much my basement costand it is 1500 sqft. we have a storage room living area game room(theater) and a bar area.. Really depends on what you want. Not sure where you live but if you live in NY(upstate) my uncle could give you an appraisal.the celings are the square tile kind. easier access to pipes.
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#73 | |
Expert Member
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it would be a nightmare to finish your basement and have water come in and ruin a bunch of stuff |
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#74 |
Moderator
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I've price water-proofing, and it's not in the cards for our home (compared to other alternatives which I've posted about elsewhere) We also live in an area where sump-pumps are prohibited.
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#75 | |
Blu-ray Champion
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We had major seepage coming through the cracks of the stones. Thought originally it was a leaking water heater. |
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#76 |
Super Moderator
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well, its been a few weeks now...and I have not even come close to starting the finish to my basement, might be a loooong time.
But, I did set up my living room. This is a preliminary pic as I have since added a couple lamps that are not shown in the photo. Also my camera does not do any justice. The color is off. My walls are really a light brown, I think the lighting is not very good in the room. Which is why I am gonna wait and take some better pics before I add it to my gallery. Anyways, after checking out others setup of wall mounted Plasmas/LCD's, I decided to grow some balls and wall mount my 50" Plasma. One word: Beautiful. ![]() I used - 1. Monoprice PREMIUM Adjustable Tilting 2.5mm Wall Mount 2. Monoprice Recessed Pro Power Kit (to run power and A/V cables behind the wall) I did this all myself at like 1 AM after a long day/night of work...so needless to say, I was dead tired ![]() ![]() Anyways, here it is: ![]() ![]() ...again, my walls are a light moca brown, not the green you see! ![]() I will take better pictures hopefully this weekend to add to my gallery. |
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#77 |
Blu-ray Champion
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Crackinhedz,
It looks nice and professional. My only suggestion is to take that center speaker out of the cabinet and put it on top of it. It may sound a lot better. I know it looks better in there and more pleasing to the WAF, but for crazies like us, sound quality is more important than appearance. P.S. Is the dog's speakers set to large or small. ![]() |
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#78 |
Super Moderator
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