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#1201 | |
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#1202 |
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#1203 |
Blu-ray Ninja
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#1204 |
Blu-ray Knight
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That was a really good idea. Now you have a riser that was free of cost. It also assures you that it will make a significant difference if you do decide to build one.
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#1209 |
Special Member
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I have officially joined the HiGhRIsE Club. My room is under 8ft so I got this badboy dialed in at exactly .25 of my room height and holding up my 15" effortlessly
![]() Still have to finish it up of course and get my Auralex pads underneath it. Going to most probably fill in the gap up with some pink stuff before sealing up the cabinet. Was going to try and fill it up with some rockwool to act as a sub trap but it would cost me too much which I can't afford right now. i just haven't decided if I'm painting it or covering it. https://forum.blu-ray.com/album.php?...pictureid=2447 https://forum.blu-ray.com/album.php?...pictureid=2446 https://forum.blu-ray.com/album.php?...pictureid=2445 |
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#1210 | |
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#1211 |
Active Member
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Just finished my DIY riser! Only took about 2 hours, and 0 cost. I havent tested with spl meter yet, but looks and sounds preety good!
![]() Last edited by kraig1; 02-20-2010 at 08:29 PM. Reason: Just cant get these pics right! |
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#1212 | |
Blu-ray Baron
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#1214 |
Active Member
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This the only way I could figure out to get these pics up! Got the isulation for the fill idea from Kareface. Didnt notice a decibal change but I like the results so far. will have to go thru some stuff to see if I notice much difference.
Last edited by kraig1; 02-20-2010 at 10:57 PM. |
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#1215 | |
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It is free . You upload pics to there from your computer . Then they give the image A Image Tag & you can copy & paste the pic in your post like this . ![]() |
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#1216 |
Senior Member
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With subs I would suggest an open frame filled with fluffy, lower density fiberglass wrapped in an acoustically transparent material. It'll do a better job of reducing the excess vertical node energy from the sub compared to a box. Also, a sealed box will produce resonance. It is a good idea if you have any box in the room to fill it with something, sand is best but fiberglass is much cheaper. The little shelf that comes on my coffee table actually resonates a great deal when I'm playing movies, I actually have to remove it at some point or get a new coffee table, lol. The main reason I have risers for my speakers is to get the tweeters to ear level, it isn't the same reason why most people raise their subs.
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#1217 | |
Special Member
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So you suggest leaving my riser open rather than closed filled with fiberglass? |
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#1218 |
Moderator
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Fiberglass is A Health Hazard & if you use it wear cloves & a Mask . Or you can use foam witch will do just fine . Even if you wrap the fiberglass in something , I personally would not trust it . Fiberglass was meant to be sealed in A wall .
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#1219 |
Special Member
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That is the main reason I've never gone out and made acoustic panels. I was never 100% sure of the material to use to properly "seal" it. I know burlap and others are good enough..BUT...I don't know. like you said it was meant to be sealed in a wall. the main reason I went the Auralex road.
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#1220 | ||
Senior Member
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As I mentioned in a post on the last page, there was research done with materials that have slightly more effective <125hz absorption coefficients. Lower pcf fiber glass is much more effective in the LF range. Foam in this instance would be a bad idea. The concept seems to be letting the air easily pass between the fibers, which is different from conventional mass based dampening. If you look at the coefficients page you can see that lower density fibers seem to be more effective at 125 (and below according to Terry Montlick, PhD in acoustics). If you build a cube, with only the top and bottom enclosed, you'll want to get a nice, light fiberglass to fill the void with and some acoustically transparent cloth to wrap it in. You do want to use gloves and a dust mask, tho I found that home made masks from old t-shirts worked so much better then the average dust mask for dealing with fiberglass. After you fill the void with the insulation just wrap the 4 uncovered sides of the cube with the cloth and staple it on. As long as it's stapled well you shouldn't have to worry about fibers from the insulation. Fiberglass is commonly used for dampening panels and the only thing protecting you from those is the same layer of acoustically transparent cloth. I've been in labs where it's left uncovered. The cloth you can get from any place that sells a variety of fabrics, you just have to select one that you can blow through when you place your face over it. As long as air can easily pass through it'll work fine. This will setup will help absorb excess bass energy from the vertical node. In theory it will decrease the dip or peak created by the standing wave at that frequency. If you want to provide better isolation, just by a set of rubber feet for the riser. Remember, raising a sub by that height might require repositioning to find the sweet spot again. I also question the 25% rule, as it's based on a simulation using 4 subs, one in each corner. I'm not convinced that in most scenarios (less then 4 subs) it would provide the best position. I would suggest doing the sub crawl, with your head at the new height for the sub to find the sweet spot. You can always test the 25% position during the sub crawl process. Edit: I remember recently reading a comment, I hunted it down. This was from the artical written by Ethan Winer concerning Acoustic Treatment and Design for Recording Studios and Listening Rooms: Quote:
Last edited by kareface; 02-21-2010 at 03:42 AM. |
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