Looking at power conditioners will Voltage Regulation be benificial?

[snsguy]

I'm looking at getting a power conditioner because I seem to have issues with electronics and things going wrong with them quick. I live in an apartment town home and have seen the lights dim and power outages because of storms and also retarted people running into the electrical poles. I also am trying to decrease static pos and noise coming from my receiver. I was looking at the APC H10 and I've also looked at some others. What I am wondering is if the voltage regulation will be beneficial to me or not? Also will the H10 be okay for the amount of electronics I own especially because my Marantz amp sucks 600 watts of power. I've looked at some Monster stuff too, because I have owned their stuff and have liked it and have benefited from them. (Please no bashing or long posts of why Monster sucks). Thanks for the help.

SNSGUY

[solarrdadd]

by virtue of what it does, conditioning the power the device will/must regulate voltage within a certain perameter. AVR (Automatic Voltage Regulation) is a feature that is inherant in almost all modern Line Conditioners & UPS units. it is very beneficial to your equipment. it will be especially good when you have brown-outs (undervoltage, sags) especially in the summer months when lots of folks are running a/c units to cool down. many power companies do intentional brown-outs to prevent losing sub stations and keep reserve generators from being forced to have to come online; in some states, they even warn residence via the news of rolling black-outs. you are also protected from levels of overvoltage (spikes, surges)it will keep good, clean, regulated (not to fluctuate outside of a given range before shut-down) power to your equipment. just make sure you size the protective device slightly larger than the equipment you plan on plugging into it. i recommend keeping at a minimum 10% of reserve difference between what your equipment needs and what your protective device (conditioner) can safely provide, i.e. a 1500w line conditioner paired with an amp no larger than or smaller than 1350w rated. this allows for better condions for the conditioner and head room reserves for peaks like when you have powerful explosions and such during a movie.

also, make sure the circuit your plugging all of this into can handle it too. i recommend, whenever possible running a dedicated circuit for HT use. when that is not possible, check what is on the circuit that you are going to be using this equipment in by turning off the circuit breaker that powers that receptacle and determining what else is on that circuit to get an idea of how all of it will be affected when using the HT equipment. this will keep from overworking your conditioner because of constant low voltage because of other loads in your house/apt sharing that circuit.

hope that helps, and notice i didn't bash monster. I don't have a problem with monster, i've owned their stuff and liked it. they have never done anything wrong to or with me.

best of luck and keep us posted.

[snsguy]

Originally Posted by solarrdadd

by virtue of what it does, conditioning the power the device will/must regulate voltage within a certain perameter. AVR (Automatic Voltage Regulation) is a feature that is inherant in almost all modern Line Conditioners & UPS units. it is very beneficial to your equipment. it will be especially good when you have brown-outs (undervoltage, sags) especially in the summer months when lots of folks are running a/c units to cool down. many power companies do intentional brown-outs to prevent losing sub stations and keep reserve generators from being forced to have to come online; in some states, they even warn residence via the news of rolling black-outs. you are also protected from levels of overvoltage (spikes, surges)it will keep good, clean, regulated (not to fluctuate outside of a given range before shut-down) power to your equipment. just make sure you size the protective device slightly larger than the equipment you plan on plugging into it. i recommend keeping at a minimum 10% of reserve difference between what your equipment needs and what your protective device (conditioner) can safely provide, i.e. a 1500w line conditioner paired with an amp no larger than or smaller than 1350w rated. this allows for better condions for the conditioner and head room reserves for peaks like when you have powerful explosions and such during a movie.

also, make sure the circuit your plugging all of this into can handle it too. i recommend, whenever possible running a dedicated circuit for HT use. when that is not possible, check what is on the circuit that you are going to be using this equipment in by turning off the circuit breaker that powers that receptacle and determining what else is on that circuit to get an idea of how all of it will be affected when using the HT equipment. this will keep from overworking your conditioner because of constant low voltage because of other loads in your house/apt sharing that circuit.

hope that helps, and notice i didn't bash monster. I don't have a problem with monster, i've owned their stuff and liked it. they have never done anything wrong to or with me.

best of luck and keep us posted.

So The H10 which is for 1000w will not be good for my receiver which takes 600w, the 360 which takes around 170w, tv which is around 220w and the sub which goes up to 230w correct? I'll need either the H15 or something completely different? Would this http://www.amazon.com/Monster-EP-365.../dp/B0012E1SA4 or this http://www.amazon.com/Monster-MKII-1.../dp/B000AYDQB6 work? Thanks for not bashing yourself or me.

SNSGUY

[solarrdadd]

Originally Posted by snsguy

So The H10 which is for 1000w will not be good for my receiver which takes 600w, the 360 which takes around 170w, tv which is around 220w and the sub which goes up to 230w correct? I'll need either the H15 or something completely different? Would this http://www.amazon.com/Monster-EP-365.../dp/B0012E1SA4 or this http://www.amazon.com/Monster-MKII-1.../dp/B000AYDQB6 work? Thanks for not bashing yourself or me.

SNSGUY

correct, also, another big deal is that the protective unit states it's rating as continuous and not peak.

[snsguy]

Originally Posted by solarrdadd

correct, also, another big deal is that the protective unit states it's rating as continuous and not peak.

So the H10 is out but the H15 is in. So what about the Monster HTS 3600 MKII
or the Monster EP 3650? I noticed the 3650 goes up to 1800w max but couldn't find seem to find what the 3600 MKII wattage is or if either have voltage regulation. It could be they're just calling it something else too. ANy hel is appreciated.

SNSGUY

[snsguy]

Originally Posted by snsguy

So the H10 is out but the H15 is in. So what about the Monster HTS 3600 MKII
or the Monster EP 3650? I noticed the 3650 goes up to 1800w max but couldn't find seem to find what the 3600 MKII wattage is or if either have voltage regulation. It could be they're just calling it something else too. ANy hel is appreciated.

SNSGUY

From what I can tell really the only difference between the monster 3600 and the 3650 is the IR receiver. Other than that aren't the basically the same except for the new design of the 3650. Am I wrong? I still can't figure out if either have voltage regalation or not.

SNSGUY

[tootall82103]

I have an H15 and love it. I have my TV, Receiver, BDP and DVD player, PS3 and Xbox plugged into it. When everything is powered on the H15 is only at about 28% capacity. It's been solid the couple months I have had it.

[ballin_shogun]

I have found this thread interesting and it has motivated me to add voltage regulation to my system...

I was going through adding up my wattage requirements and noticed that onkyo lists 5.5A for the power requirements on the TX-SR607. To convert this to watts I multiplied by 120V which = 660W. Is this the peak or the RMS power requirement? Generally speaking what do manufacturers list?

Thanks!

[phansson]

SNSGUY,

what kind of "noise" do you have right now? Is it something you hear?

[snsguy]

Originally Posted by phansson

SNSGUY,

what kind of "noise" do you have right now? Is it something you hear?

My refurbished Marantz is making a loud static popping noise whenever anything is changed aka muted, source changed, channel changed, decoding changed. It even did it when I was trying to calibrate it with the Audessey Microphone. It will do the tone and then a loud pop. Come to find out it sounds like I have a bad unit. So they are exchanging it out for me. At least that's what I told. But I also was hearing lite static while watching anything too which did not sound like the unit. I've also had many problems with electronics simply being bad when I first buy them. I blame it on some kind of voodoo that has been bestowed on me considering anything I seem to touch has to be returned at least once. As I thought about it nad read some I'm really wondering if it has more to do with the fact that I need a power conditioner. The circumstances aren't great with renting a town home with three people around you using the same power sources. There has been black outs and I've also noticed the lights dimming a lot lately. So I'm looking for a good Power Conditioner with a voltage regulator if that is also important. It seems that the three that I'm looking at woill be good I just am not sure if the monster power conditioners have the voltage regulation. If they don't would it be better to go with the APC? If they do I just need to pick between the two because I can get them for less then the APC. Also as another poster stated I'm looking at the amount of Watts and Volts that my gear requires and leaving headroom for really bad spikes. So the APC H10 is out of the question. So it's the APC H15, Monster EP 3650, or the Monster HTS 3600 MKII. I'v noticed at least two of them are used pretty regularly here. The Monster EP3650 I've only seen a few times but have seen many of the little brother which I believe is either the 1800 or 1600.

SNSGUY

[phansson]

Originally Posted by snsguy

My refurbished Marantz is making a loud static popping noise whenever anything is changed aka muted, source changed, channel changed, decoding changed. It even did it when I was trying to calibrate it with the Audessey Microphone. It will do the tone and then a loud pop. Come to find out it sounds like I have a bad unit. So they are exchanging it out for me. At least that's what I told. But I also was hearing lite static while watching anything too which did not sound like the unit. I've also had many problems with electronics simply being bad when I first buy them. I blame it on some kind of voodoo that has been bestowed on me considering anything I seem to touch has to be returned at least once. As I thought about it nad read some I'm really wondering if it has more to do with the fact that I need a power conditioner. The circumstances aren't great with renting a town home with three people around you using the same power sources. There has been black outs and I've also noticed the lights dimming a lot lately. So I'm looking for a good Power Conditioner with a voltage regulator if that is also important. It seems that the three that I'm looking at woill be good I just am not sure if the monster power conditioners have the voltage regulation. If they don't would it be better to go with the APC? If they do I just need to pick between the two because I can get them for less then the APC. Also as another poster stated I'm looking at the amount of Watts and Volts that my gear requires and leaving headroom for really bad spikes. So the APC H10 is out of the question. So it's the APC H15, Monster EP 3650, or the Monster HTS 3600 MKII. I'v noticed at least two of them are used pretty regularly here. The Monster EP3650 I've only seen a few times but have seen many of the little brother which I believe is either the 1800 or 1600.

SNSGUY

While I believe that power conditioners are important, it might not fix your problem. If the popping is constistent with changing something on your Marantz, it might be a problem with your processor/receiver.

Try unhooking every source and see if you get the same popping noise when you change sources. Remember that voltage problems can pass between hdmi connections, interconnects or even coax cable connections. This way you can nail down the culprit.

[Steve]

OP I just bought a Belkin PF60 to replace a PF30 because the 30 no longer has enough outlets for my needs. I don't know if it would meet all your needs, but it can regularly be bought for around $200 on Amazon. Check it out.

[selkec]

Originally Posted by snsguy

So The H10 which is for 1000w will not be good for my receiver which takes 600w, the 360 which takes around 170w, tv which is around 220w and the sub which goes up to 230w correct? I'll need either the H15 or something completely different? Would this http://www.amazon.com/Monster-EP-365.../dp/B0012E1SA4 or this http://www.amazon.com/Monster-MKII-1.../dp/B000AYDQB6 work? Thanks for not bashing yourself or me.

SNSGUY

I would still think the h10 will work I use it and I have everything plugged into it and never had a problem.

[snsguy]

Originally Posted by phansson

While I believe that power conditioners are important, it might not fix your problem. If the popping is constistent with changing something on your Marantz, it might be a problem with your processor/receiver.

Try unhooking every source and see if you get the same popping noise when you change sources. Remember that voltage problems can pass between hdmi connections, interconnects or even coax cable connections. This way you can nail down the culprit.

Thanks for the input. I tried that. It didn't work. Unplugged everything but one HDMI and it still popped. I'll try it without HDMI in and see if it does it then but I'm pretty sure I heard the pop before I even started dealing with the HDMI inputs and out put. I think the loud popping sound is coming from the receiver itself since it does it once it's warmed up. Sounds like a bad unit to begin with. Then there is the light static that I am getting every so often from the speakers when watching something. I also noticed that after I changed the last four speakers to mono price banana plugs the level of sound output dropped and I started to hear some distortion coming from the front sound stage. I'm going to try and remove the banana plugs and see if that fixes that issue. But I still believe that a power conditioner with or without a voltage regulator will be beneficial due to the frequent problems that seem to be occurring with all my HT electronics.

Originally Posted by fireman325

OP I just bought a Belkin PF60 to replace a PF30 because the 30 no longer has enough outlets for my needs. I don't know if it would meet all your needs, but it can regularly be bought for around $200 on Amazon. Check it out.

Thanks! I now have included that in the running.

Originally Posted by selkec

I would still think the h10 will work I use it and I have everything plugged into it and never had a problem.

I am a little weary of doing that. I'd rather have some over compensating then something that doesn't have enough to protect our electronics. Now that solarrdadd has informed me of the wattage dilemma, I am making sure that I'm completely covered. I hope yours keeps protecting your gear.

SNSGUY

[snsguy]

Well it looks like Monsters Power Conditioners are out. Looks like none of the ones that I am looking at do not provide voltage regulation. I just finally found it on their site here. Unless that isn't as important but I think in my case, it is. So the search goes on.

SNSGUY

[Steve]

Originally Posted by snsguy

Thanks! I now have included that in the running.

No problem. Good luck with whichever one you decide to get.

[phansson]

Originally Posted by snsguy

Thanks for the input. I tried that. It didn't work. Unplugged everything but one HDMI and it still popped. I'll try it without HDMI in and see if it does it then but I'm pretty sure I heard the pop before I even started dealing with the HDMI inputs and out put. I think the loud popping sound is coming from the receiver itself since it does it once it's warmed up. Sounds like a bad unit to begin with. Then there is the light static that I am getting every so often from the speakers when watching something. I also noticed that after I changed the last four speakers to mono price banana plugs the level of sound output dropped and I started to hear some distortion coming from the front sound stage. I'm going to try and remove the banana plugs and see if that fixes that issue. But I still believe that a power conditioner with or without a voltage regulator will be beneficial due to the frequent problems that seem to be occurring with all my HT electronics.

I would hate to jinx you, but it sounds like you have a processor issue. When you said it was refurbished, did you just get it? I would go ahead and check the banana plugs, but I doubt that would be your problem.

Good luck!

[snsguy]

Originally Posted by phansson

I would hate to jinx you, but it sounds like you have a processor issue. When you said it was refurbished, did you just get it? I would go ahead and check the banana plugs, but I doubt that would be your problem.

Good luck!

It's okay I jinxed myself a long time ago. Ya I figured that out when changing to banana plugs didn't work. I've already been approved for an exchange by accessories for less and now I am waiting for Marantz to contact me for the exchange. I actually just got it last Thursday. So I haven't even had it very long. I just hope it hasn't damaged the speakers. When I was doing the audessey calibration, it would do a loud pop after each tone. It sucks but I'll have the power conditioner by the time I get it back and I won't have to worry about anything damaging it.

SNSGUY

[solarrdadd]

Originally Posted by snsguy

It's okay I jinxed myself a long time ago. Ya I figured that out when changing to banana plugs didn't work. I've already been approved for an exchange by accessories for less and now I am waiting for Marantz to contact me for the exchange. I actually just got it last Thursday. So I haven't even had it very long. I just hope it hasn't damaged the speakers. When I was doing the audessey calibration, it would do a loud pop after each tone. It sucks but I'll have the power conditioner by the time I get it back and I won't have to worry about anything damaging it.

SNSGUY

Howdy, sorry to hear about the issue you are dealing with. the funny part is if i didn't know any better i'd swear your equipment was suffering from the DTS-BOMB! before i did a firmware update to my receiver, when watching certain DTS-HD-MA movies, at certain points in the movie, i would get these hugh popping sounds and i mean hugh, scary hugh! however in your case this is happening when doing the audio calibration. i hope it gets resolved and i hope that your line conditioner issue gets resolved too. i am not a man that is necessarily interested in the "prettiest" of things. I use this line conditioner, http://www.tripplite.com/en/products...xtModelID=2833 it is rated at 1800w (peak) and 1500w (continuous) and the only thing i use in it is my Emotiva XPA-5 power amp. Tripplite also makes a 2400w continuous rated unit too should you need that much power. (gotta protect my investment!) the line conditioner plugs into a dedicated 20a 125v duplex TVSS (Transient Voltage Surge Suppression) http://www.1.bestbuyelectric.com/aca...IGB_28764.html type receptacle (fed with #12awg wire direct to a 20a breaker in the panel) all of my other gear is plugged into an APC surge surpression plug strip which is plugged into an APC 1500w UPS which is plugged into the other socket aforementioned TVSS duplex receptacle. again, I know that the Line conditioner I use is not a rack mountable unit, it's not pretty but it has been very effective thus far. I also use this model line conditoner on another dedicated 20a line for a large auto duplexing laser printer i have to protect it too! now, i'm not gonna say you need all of the stuff i have but, i am very knowledgable of the dangers of electricity (30+ years) and since i'm an electrician (master) i installed my own dedicated circuits at no charge to myself!

seriously, the line conditioner may be all you need. get something that is going to protect your equipment properly and to your satisfaction first. then, get something that's going to look pretty in your gallery second (i skipped the second one!) just remember to make sure to size the unit properly based on the load you want to protect.

best of luck, keep us posted. sorry, i tend to babble!

[snsguy]

I've pretty much narrowed it to the APC H15 and the Monster 3600 MKII and the Tripp Lite HT1210ISOCTR. As I read through a lot of reviews I am kind of confused about something. How can a lot of people say that Monsters 3600 clearly shows more clarity to their picture and creates a wider sound stage to their speakers and not much is said about that with APC or Tripp Lite's units? Are people just not talking about it or does the Monster have something to it. I can get the Monster for $230 with some credit I have on Amazon, or the Tripp Lite for $237 also at Amazon, or the APC through Vann's for $280. So it's not like I'm getting a better deal by going by going with anyone one of them. I just want to make the right decision. Anyone have any input to this? I looked at the Belkin but I don't think it fits my needs. I like the look but alot of people said it felt cheap and the LCD screen was hard to see or started to die after a while. I couldn't find much at all on Monsters 3650 which makes me weary to buy.

SNSGUY